Monday, September 5, 2011

All That Sparkles is Not Gold But Definitely May Be Vintage Costume Jewellery

In the early years of the 20th century the production and sale of ladies' ornaments known as costume jewellery became a fashion phenomenon. At a time in history when the rules of fashion were much more strictly defined where differences between the classes still ruled society and before the trials of severe economic depression and two World Wars these flashy and colorful fashion accessories added adventure and fun to what women wore.

In the fashion world of the decades of 1920 and 1930 a woman's apparel was referred to as her costume. Today we talk about the outfits women wear. When women wore their costumes in the early 20th century they began to purchase a jewellery accessory to go with a particular costume when she wore it. These pieces therefore came to be known as costume jewellery. These inexpensive and âdisposable accessories were intended to be fashionable for the life of the costume and then outdated itself. Then other jewellery accessories would be purchased to go with the next new fashion or woman's costume (outfit).

Costume jewellery has been used in many cultures for around 300 years though. It was in the 18th century that jewellery pieces made of glass begin to be produced. Women would not wear their priceless diamonds in public sometimes but instead wore duplicate pieces made of paste. Fine (or real) jewellery had traditionally been regarded as primarily keepsakes collectibles investments and family heirlooms. Only the wealthy could afford fine jewelry. Women of the middle class might have a string of pearls but expensive jewellery for adornment was the province of the upper classes. In the 19th century the use of semi-precious stones was added to the manufacturing of costume jewelry pieces. When the read golden era of fashion or costume jewellery manufacturing began in the 20th century the pieces produced were made of less valuable or expensive materials such as base metals (such as brass) plastic glass and synthetic (or man-made) stones. Inexpensive simulated gemstones like rhinestones or Lucite were set in nickel brass pewter or even silver.

The new and rising middle class in the 1930s wanted to wear affordable yet beautiful jewellery and this demand coincided perfectly with the rise of the manufacturing capability to create it. Beautiful replicas of fine pieces could be made and sold at a price women of all social stations could afford for at least one nice piece. No sooner than machines were used to create a lot of inexpensive jewellery pieces though many complained that these machines would detract from the beauty of hand-made pieces. What they actually did was make jewellery affordable for everyone.

Vintage costume jewellery can be characterized by its period of manufacturing. The Art Deco period (1920s-1930s) combined the hardness of mass production with artful designs. Coco Channel led the style of pairing certain special jewellery pieces with each of her costume designs. Flowing curves symmetry and geometrical designs characterized Art Deco style which ended with the start of the Great Depression and the beginning of World War I. The Retro Period followed (1935-1950) Natural materials were intermingled with plastics. American made jewellery began to take on a distinctly American look. While economic depression and World War II shut down European designers the United States was experiencing economic recovery. Glamor and sophistication are characteristics of this period. Designs had a Hollywood flair and would include flowers sunburst designs horse motifs military influences and moonstones. Bakelite jewellery was first make in this period.

Art Modern (1945-1960) replaced big and bold with more tailored styles. Charm bracelets topaz jade and rhinestone bracelets led the fashion curve. Designers Dior Channel Miriam Haskell Crown Trifari and Hattie Carnegie led the field. In the 1960s Kenneth Jay Lane designed unique jewellery pieces for Audrey Hepburn Jackie Onassis and others. Barbara Bush's trademark three stand faux pearls were his design. Today these vintage costume jewellery pieces are highly collectible and sought after. Modern costume jewellery now has its own designated sub-category within fashion accessories classification. Women will enjoy these beautiful pieces for many years to come.

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